Thursday, 9/13
Brrr again this morning. I suspect that it dipped below 40F. It was only 42 at 8:30 am, but the temperature rose quickly in the warm sunshine and by the time we began our first tour at 9:30am it was already in the 60s. Cliff Palace was our first stop and we had just the BEST ranger and tour-guide, Dave. We climbed down many steps and walked on some winding paths to get right to this particular cliff dwelling. It was amazing to see it all up close, to imagine what life was like in 1200, and to marvel at their mastery of geometry, technology and design.
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Tour in progress....we're standing at the edge of a Kiva |
They used harder stone to shape the sandstone into bricks (by rubbing it until the surfaces were smooth and flat). Then they mixed the mortar and built walls, sometimes using small stones as chinks between the bricks, to keep the mortar from squeezing out before it dried. Everything is plumb and level (ancient plumb bobs were found amongst the artifacts). Just incredible.
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Note the round tower up left and the square tower up right...built in 1200 and still standing! |
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Looking down into a Kiva--note round fire hole and barrier wall to keep the fresh air (small vent left) from blowing out the fire. When in use they had roofs built over them which would have been walked on...you entered via a ladder through a hole in that roof. Sacred ceremonies took place in Kivas, and each family group had their own...they also used them as a general gathering place. |
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Our fantastic guide, Ranger Dave. |
Our next tour was to Balcony House. This one was only for the adventurous, as we had to climb down a series of stairs on the face of the cliff (with a many-hundred-foot drop beneath us) and then climb up a series of long ladders. Oh, and we had to crawl through two very dark and narrow tunnels, which were clearly NOT designed for men over 5' 2" tall (and we don't even need to talk about the problems associated with being too wide to fit....).
Again, our guide was excellent. She talked a lot about the spirituality and beliefs of the Hopi/Pueblo people, how they were--and remain, almost 2000 years later--a peaceful people. We learned that Mesa Verde National Park also was awarded status as a World Heritage Site in 1978, because it represents the continuation of a rich cultural heritage which is still alive in many parts of the SW and Mexico.
We had been edified and awed, but we needed a little more strenuous exercise. So we hiked the Petroglyph Point Trail, about 2.4 miles long. Very rocky and fun to climb around and through little passageways on the way up and then we were strolling along the rim for the rest of the way. The sun was shining, the scenery was gorgeous, and we were like hiking rockstars.
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Nils takes a rest on a big rock |
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Yes, I'm obsessed. Check out the twist in THIS log!! |
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They're everywhere! This one is called Spruce Tree House. There are hundreds of them in the Park |
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